Magic Table 2

 Like the rest of my set for LILI, the Magic Table covering will be painted canvas.
Above is my layout for the positioning of the stars and circles which decorate the table covering. Yes, I used little cut-out pieces of paper and moved them around the layout until I was satisfied with the pattern.  I needed to keep in mind that the covering will be pleated when attached to the table, so I had to place the stars, for example so that they will  be visible on the outer curves

When I was satisfied with the layout I did this color plan to guide me in painting the stars and circles. The entire background of the covering will be painted black.
Again I'm making use of "negative space" in the design for all the elements of the setting for LILI. The Table itself will "float" against it's black curtain backdrop, just as the stars and circles 'float" against the black background of the table covering itself.

Coming up: Painting and sewing the covering.

The Magic Table!

 The Magic Table is now being constructed in my little workshop for transport to Fort Worth, Texas and the Hip Pocket Theatre this August for my production of  "LILI".

Above is my sketch work for the frame and covering of the Magic Table. This is the central prop in the Magicians' act which is the centerpiece scene of the first part of "LILI". All of the magic performed will be done by puppeteers in black against a black Magic Curtain ( more about that is coming up!)

This simple framework houses an ingenious little device ( which I will NOT show you as that would spoil the surprise!) allowing items to magically appear and disappear as the Magician gestures. It's pretty neat, actually.

The real work on this set piece is being done now: the Table Cloth...I will post my progress on that in the next few days....

"LILI" Title Banner

 Continuing forward with the painting of the drops and banners which will be used for the set of   LILI.

I am making use of "Negative Space" in the production of this show. certain segments will be performed by puppeteers in all black against a black background. These "Invisible" creatures will be able to manipulate anything with color and reflectivity within the negative space of the blackness and those items will appear to float, appear and disappear at will, like magic.
The opening moments of the show will feature this Title banner which will unfold magically before the audience's eyes.
Above is the computer generated Logo for LILI, with a graphic breakdown of it's measurements for a 3X5' banner.

Here are poster board cutout stencils of the letters full sized. these are traced onto the canvas in the proper positions ( marked carefully on the stencils) and then the Violet paint is applied, just slightly over the edge of the pencil line. When this is dry, I retrace the stencils over the violet paint and then carefully paint the black outline to meet that pencil outline. The rest of the black background is painted in to fill out the banner

 When all the paint is dry ( in this case both front and back of the canvas) I  hand stitched 1/2" diameter violet rhinestones to certain points on the letters. These will glisten magically in the stage lights as the banner is unrolled between the two black clad puppeteers

This whole effect will last only a few seconds onstage, but it sets the tone of the show with the promise of more magical moments to come ( and there are many!)

LILI Set Designs and Completed Units

 Continuing onward with set construction for my summer production of  "LILI" for the Hip Pocket Theatre in Fort Worth, Texas.
Above is my design for the Puppet Booth which is the central unit of the finished set, and where the puppets I posted earlier will make their appearances during the show.

The base unit measures 8' X 4', with the header as a separate piece above it for a total height is 10' from the stage floor. The actors playing PAUL and JACQUOT will actually bring in these units and "assemble" the booth in front of the audience, just as they would set up for the actual carnival puppet show. There is an existing central stage platform to which these pieces will be hung, so the actors will have little effort involved in doing this.

 Here is my plan for the structure of the Puppet Booth base unit. It is a simple lightweight box basically, just enough structure to attach painted canvas panels to. It will not need to support weight as the puppets will "float" in the blackness of the background directly above it. This will be built by the theatre staff before my arrival in July.

 And these are those canvas panels after being assembled and painted in my workshop here in New Mexico. The 4' X 8' central panel will be stapled to the base front with the two red and white striped side pieces attached on either side of the unit.
Standard wood molding, miter cut and painted blue will be tacked in place around the front panel to add some texture to the piece and hide those pesky staples!

This is the upper header unit of the Puppet Booth after painting was finished.
 To keep this unit light weight for the actors the lower scalloped piece and the pediment backing are actually painted canvas. Only the simple framed pieces are of wood. Since I will have to transport this unit to Texas this summer, the 8' 4" long center piece is hinged in back to fold down. The upper pediment which is 5' 6" X 22" is a separate piece which when secured to the unfolded center will make one solid unit.

Beside this you will see a string of colored lights. There is a grooved channel running the length of the center piece into which the wires for these lights will be hidden as they are stretched across the front of the unit. As the actors hang this in place on stage one of them will plug the lights into a concealed circuit so that the booth can be lit up on cue when needed.
 I won't be able to attach these lights until I assemble the unfolded unit in Texas this summer. Likewise the mirrored balls that top this unit and the other units of the set  will only be glued into place just before we open the show. They are pretty, but also very fragile.

LILI Puppets Completed!!

 At Last the puppets for my summer production of  LILI  at the Hip Pocket Theater are completed!

Here is :CARROT TOP

and  GOLO, THE GIANT

and  REYNARDO, THE FOX

 and lovely  MARGUERITTE

The puppets are packed up and on their way to Fort Worth this week where they will be stored until rehearsals begin in July.
It took about 6 full weeks of work to produce these 4 rod puppets.
 Much, much  hand sewing was required on the heads, hands and especially the costumes.My fingers need a rest!

Now on to the set and prop construction. I will post my progress as I proceed.

Scenes from the Costuming Shop

 The LILI puppets in the costuming shop: CARROT TOP, above, has his shirt and lower sleeves in place.
  (where parts of the costume will not show it is best to fit only partial pieces so the shoulder movement won't be inhibited). The fabric behind him will be used to create a two-toned  blue jacket to complete his costume.

 REYNARDO, above, has been fitted with his shirt, vest and bow tie ( again, only the shirt cuffs will be visible). The interesting purple filigree print fabric behind him will be used for his formal tailcoat with the glittery purple at right as the lining and lapel facing. He should look very dapper when done!

 GOLO, THE GIANT, above, has his yellow flannel pajama top in place. The leopard print fabric will be fashioned into a skin toga for him, and a flannel night cap will complete his costume.

Finally, MARGUERITTE, above, is doing the "dance of the single veil"...awaiting her fashionable frock of sky blue butterfly print material at left with an over skirt of the sheer glittery blue tulle she is "wearing". Her earrings and necklace are actual vintage costume jewelry. She will have "diamond"  bracelets to match when she is fully costumed.

The finished puppets will be 20 inches tall. They have been purposely designed to look like glove puppets with no substance below their waists. In fact they are rod puppets operated from the back. They will be fitted with wrist rod controls when their costumes have been finally attached.

The puppeteers, all in black, will perform the puppets against a black background within their custom designed puppet booth set piece. At the climax of the play the puppets "break free" of their booth and move and dance about with the main character all around the the stage.

Hair Today 2 ( deleted from earlier post)

 In reviewing my posts I discovered that I inadvertently deleted the second part of the Puppet Hair tutorial, so here it is belatedly:

Aside from the pom-pom maker for creating the puppet's hair, the simple cardboard jig shown above will assist you in making long lengths of yarn hair. Roughly 12" long by 7" wide with the center section cut out.

Here the yarn (two tones of color to create texture that will read under the stage lights) is wrapped around the width of the jig about 40 times and secured at the outer ends with wooden clothes pins. The open center section allows the entire jig to be positioned on the sewing machine. A tight stitch is run down the center of the yarn. Clip the sides with scissors.

 The first finished section of hair, laid ear to ear on the back of the puppet's head and then stitched with heavy carpet thread to the same colored fabric backing.

 I use a curved upholstery needle for this type of sewing. Much easier to handle. Tie a knot in every other stitch to secure the hair firmly in place.

Sew three sections up the back of the head to the upper center and flip the last section around to form the bangs. Give the hair a trimming and GOLO the Giant has a very serviceable head of hair. I will take a few stitches to secure the strands above the ears later.

[ Not Shown, but equally useful: To create curls from the yarn you will need a 12" length of 1/4" wooden dowel and a plastic soda straw which you will slip over the dowel. In a small dish or tray ( I wash and reuse the ones that frozen dinners come in) mix some ordinary white school glue with an equal amount of warm water and stir together thoroughly. Cut about a 20" length of the yarn and dip it into this glue mixture until it is saturated. Draw the yarn through your fingers to remove some of the excess liquid. This is messy, so you might want to wear plastic gloves while you work. Using a wooden clothes pin, clip one end of the wet yarn to the top of the straw over the dowel. Gently roll the yarn around the straw being careful not to stretch it. For tight curls, wrap the yarn so that each round touches the first one...for looser curls wrap the yarn with a bit of space in between the rounds. Clip the other end of the yarn to the straw & dowel with another clothes pin and set the whole thing out in the sun to dry. If no sun use a small fan to blow on the yarn to dry it. This takes about 4 hours. Don't remove the yarn until it is completely dry. When you un-clip the ends the curled yarn should slip off the plastic straw easily. That 20" piece should yield three or four good sized curls or you can sew it on the head as is in a curving formation, adding additional lengths as needed.  These glued curls will hold their shape forever and the white glue doesn't alter the original color of the yarn at all. ]